Ted Merwin: A pastrami-on-rye goodbye

Tel Aviv may be the world capital of Jewish food these days, but for most of the 20th century, it was New York that exuded pastrami and pickle brine from its very pores. The streets of Gotham were once chock-a-block with bustling kosher delis sporting festoons of salamis in the windows, appetizing stores redolent with the scent of freshly baked bagels, and smoked fish and airy garment-center cafeterias with shiny metal counters splattered with mushroom barley soup and beet borscht.
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